Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.